Corn Snake Tip: These are SOLITARY animals; they do not get lonely.  Only ONE animal per enclosure.  Corn Snakes CAN brumate, so don’t be worried if they start to slow down on eating through October.

Enclosure Assembly

When the enclosure changes, the heating, lighting, and UVB/A requirements change.

Our Enclosure Requirements:

• 120-gallon (4'x2'x2') PVC or Glass front opening screen top enclosure  (usually starts at $220+ new).
• Screen Top is easier, safer, and costs less than a fully enclosed system, which will require light guards and sometimes more costly radiant heat panels in the case of wood or PVC.
• Front opening sliding glass or Plexiglass with slider lock.

Enclosure Type 1 48” wide 4x2x2 PVC: 

Housing:

Approved 120 gallon pvc style enclosures:

UVB Fixture/Bulb: 

Approved 36” T5 Fixtures that include the bulb:

Heat Fixture:

    With a Dimmer Switch - https://amzn.to/3SHX4K6 (Amazon

Heat Daytime:

               Zoo Med Repti Turf Slashproof, 90 Watt - Click HERE

Heat Nighttime:

                Zoo Med Infrared Heat Projector, 100 Watt - Click HERE

Enclosure Type 2 44” wide 76 Gallon PCV: 

Housing:

Approved 76-120 gallon pvc style enclosures:

UVB Fixture/Bulb: 

Approved 36” T5 Fixtures that include the bulb:

OR fixture/lights purchased separately:

Approved 36” T5 Fixtures that require an additional bulb

Approved 34” T5 bulbs for 36” Fixtures

Heat Fixture:

            Zoo Med Combo Mini Double Dome - https://amzn.to/42pzlkY (Amazon)

            With a Dimmer Switch - https://amzn.to/3SHX4K6 (Amazon

Heat Daytime:

            Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp 75 Watt - https://rb.gy/oidi60 (PetSmart)

Heat Nighttime:

Arcadia Deep Heat Emitter 80watt for Reptile Enclosures - https://amzn.to/47WLIWU (Amazon)

Enclosure Type 3 36” wide 50 gallon Glass: 

Housing:

Approved 50-gallon glass-style enclosures:

UVB Fixture/Bulb: 

(Lighting Option 1)

Approved 36” T5 Fixtures that include the bulb:

OR fixture/lights purchased separately:

Approved 36” T5 Fixtures that require an additional bulb

Approved 34” T5 bulbs for 36” Fixtures

Heat Daytime:

                        Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp 75 Watt - https://rb.gy/oidi60 (PetSmart)

Heat Nighttime:

(Option 1 – Top)

Arcadia Deep Heat Emitter 80watt for Reptile Enclosures - https://amzn.to/47WLIWU (Amazon)

Zoo Med Combo Mini Double Dome - https://amzn.to/42pzlkY (Amazon) with a Dinner Switch - https://amzn.to/3SHX4K6 (Amazon) to house both the deep heat emitter and the halogen

(Option 2 – Under):

Fluker's Premium Heat Mat for All Reptiles and Amphibians, Large 17"x11", Black - https://amzn.to/3vX3fkm (Amazon)

If this option is selected you will need a Zoo Med Mini Single Dome - https://amzn.to/3umhGhA (Amazon) for the halogen

Heating, Lighting, & UVB Set-up & Management

Ideal temperatures for Corn Snakes range from 75-82°F on the cool side, and 80-85°F on the warm side. Provide an 88-92°F basking area on the warm side.  Humidity should be between 40-60%.  Night temps should be between 70-80°F.  The UVB Ferguson Zone is 2-3.

The UVB and top daytime heat fixtures are plugged into the timer and set to be on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours.

Timer: 24-Hour Mechanical Timer Outlet with multiple Grounded Outlets. Daytime units will plug into the timer side, nighttime units will plug into the continuous side - https://amzn.to/3w0aBnk (Amazon)

Thermostat: ReptiZoo dimmable thermostatic controller - https://amzn.to/3UcgWGq (Amazon) - the nighttime heat source will be plugged into this unit.

With heat coming from the top, the sensor for the controller will need to be secured at ground level as close to being in the projected heat path of the deep heat projector as possible, with clear packing tape that firmly adhears to the side of the enclosure so that your snake cannot pull it off and get stuck to it but you can easily remove it when needed - https://amzn.to/47JZ2Of (Amazon)

You will tape the thermostat sensor to the center of the OUTSIDE of the heating mat (not between the heat mat and glass) in the center of the mat, where it is dark in color. If there is a suction cup on the sensor, remove and discard it. Tape the sensor and the wire all the way to the edge to make sure it cannot fall off. If unsure, ask your adoption counselor for help before you do this to avoid hassle.

It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to get a Solarmeter Model 6.5 UV Index Meter - https://amzn.to/3S7qvUd (Amazon).  This is not only to measure the Ferguson Zone for the UVB, but it also tells you when the UVB has been burned off from the bulb.

While the bulbs that we recommend generally need to be replaced every 10 - 11 months, some can be defective and burn out sooner.  UVB lights can stop emitting UVB but still illuminate.  Always save the bulb box and receipt if you need to exchange it due to this.  The meter can help to prove your case.

Alternatively, many of these bulbs live longer than expected.  If you check the health of your UVB bulb once a month, you may find that it is viable for many months longer than expected, thus saving you money in the long run.

Remember, the Ferguson Zone you want for your corn snake to be in is between 2 and 3.  The meter will help you to learn where that is in your enclosure.   It needs to reach the highest point that your snake can climb to.  This will remain an unknown without the meter.  Be Aware!  Cheaper means unreliable or measures the wrong thing.  IF you get one, it must say 6.5 on it.

TIP!!! - Never throw away your UVB light box or receipt in case you need to return it for burning out too soon.  This goes for all of your light and heating elements.

To manage your gradient temperatures, you need the Etekcity Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun - https://amzn.to/42pQawp (Amazon).  Knowing the temps is helpful if your animal is not acting or behaving in a normal way. You can even use it to test your animal's temp as well as the water for your animal’s bath!

Décor, Hints & Tips:

We do not recommend using anything that has suction cups because they become weak over time and can cause a hazard for your snake. 

Everything needs to be reptile safe, so when looking for things like wood or rocks, it is recommended you purchase these items new from a reptile retailer. 

If possible, it’s preferred to use items that are not porous or made of wood for a healthy and easy-to-clean environment.

If you want to use items from outside, you MUST scrub them with Dawn Wildlife Safe Dish Soap (THIS one only) - https://amzn.to/428GOoo (Amazon), followed by a wipe down or spray of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol - https://amzn.to/3Hv2txG (Amazon). 

If it is wood that is from either outside or is second-hand, you MUST do the above, then bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 2 hours – set your timer to check on it every 15 minutes to make sure it does not catch on fire.

Substrate – The best choice of substrate for your corn snake is one that can hold a little moisture and provide an elevated humidity over traditional wood chips that will mold. Both Zilla and ZooMed make forest floor-style substrates that will complement the natural settings a corn snake would see in the wild.

Forest Floor style substrates

Zilla Reptile Terrarium Bedding Substrate Jungle Mix Moss & Fir, 24-QtU - https://amzn.to/3uMFpb5 - (Amazon)

OR

Zoo Med REPTISOIL Blend 24Qt - https://amzn.to/49ZbyuD - (Amazon)

Hides and Climbs – Corn Snakes like to explore, so some clutter along the back and sides of the enclosure would be good while leaving open space in the center and front for you to see and interact with your corn snake for easy accessibility.   This also gives them enrichment. 

Here are some of the Climbs/Hides we use:

·         Large corner simulated rock hide: https://amzn.to/3P4ONgR (Amazon)

·         Cork Bark: https://amzn.to/3wy9GdY (Amazon)

·         Grapewood Branch: https://amzn.to/49YjTie (Amazon)

·         Greens and vines: https://amzn.to/3V1z85K (Amazon)

 Dishes and Suppliants:

Water Bowl: this will be placed on the cool side and should be big enough for your snake to get in to soak.  We use this one for our adult snakes: https://amzn.to/48MtMik (Amazon). It comes in 3 sizes.

Chlorine remover: Tap water is healthy for your animals because of the minerals in it, but you will need to remove the chlorine from it with Zoo Med ReptiSafe Water Conditioner for Reptiles - https://amzn.to/480MCBM  (Amazon).  This is to be used in drinking water and soaking water, and the water to spray the substrate for humidity.

*Please Note - bottled water is not recommended, and distilled water is dangerous for reptiles.

Feeding Tongs:  Zoo Med Soft Tip Angled Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs, 10" - https://amzn.to/4b67OJk (Amazon)

Snake hook – This is just in case you need to handle your snake when they are not in a good mood or if they are in a hard-to-get-at location: https://amzn.to/3STkSti (Amazon).  You can also use them to touch your snake to let them know you are there, and it is handling time until you build a relationship with them.

Travel Kit – There are 3 pieces needed to safely transport a snake.

·         The snake will first be in the bag.  You can use a pillowcase for this.

·         The bag will need to be closed securely with this clip – they can work through a knot: https://amzn.to/42TID9Y (Amazon

·         The last piece is a secured carrier with handles that the closed bag will be placed in.  A small cat carrier will work, but here are some more carrier options:

o   1^st Carrier: https://amzn.to/4eCN5kI (Amazon)

o   2^nd Carrier: https://amzn.to/4toAVQ0 (Amazon)

o   3^rd Carrier: https://amzn.to/3IkNTcn (Amazon)

o   4^th Carrier: https://amzn.to/3IsuHcF (Amazon)

Snake Feeding: Most snakes should be fed a size of prey that is about the same size around as the snake's body at its widest point. This means that as a snake grows, you will have to adjust the size of the prey fed to the snake to accommodate the snake's increasing size.

Your snake only eats thawed frozen food. Live prey should not be fed to snakes, as the prey will not only suffer psychological stress while being hunted by the snake, but also threaten to harm the snake by biting it before they are eaten. This can also lead to increased prey drive in your snake which can lead to difficulty in handling.

When your snake is a juvenile, you’ll need to feed it every week. As they get older, you can pull back on frequent feedings. Juveniles eat once every other week, and adults eat once every 2-3 weeks. Your adoption counselor will tell you the current schedule and food size of your pet when you get closer to your adoption date